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Saab 93 – Service Time ft. Cabin Filter & O2 Sensor

Its been a few months since my last update, but the Saab had some love during this time.

First things first, I wasn’t too sure when the car last had an oil and filter change. The sticker in the screen was ancient, but the oil wasn’t too bad, so I guess the previous owner had done it without recording the mileage/date.

Regardless, this popped up, so I had no choice

Without the under trays fitted, an oil change on the Saab is super easy. First, get the front of the car in the air

Pop the oil cap out for easier drain

Now the oil filter housing and drain plug are right there, easy to get at. The filter housing is in the front (orange arrow), and takes a 24mm socket to remove. This should only be torqued to 25nm, but mine was so tight I was worried it would break. The drain plug is the at the back (green arrow).

I picked up a genuine ACDelco (GM) filter, along with a new rubber seal for the drain plug. ACDelco 19101310 (AC088)

Whilst the oil was draining I removed the existing rubber seal (which was stuck to the sump, be careful of this) and fit the replacement

And cracked the oil filter housing off

The old filter had done some miles and didn’t look nice. Either the oil had been in there longer than expected, or the filter wasn’t changed last time.

The replacement is much nicer. Don’t forget the O-Ring on the top of the cap

Screw it back in, torque it to 25nm and that part is done. Now plug the drain plug back in, torque to 25nm, and it’s time to fill.

I used ACDelco Dexos 1 Gen 2 5W30 full synthetic.

With the required amount of oil installed, a quick start saw the system quickly primed and the oil light gone. I then reset the service light via the SID (this can only be reset once it says a service is due, not before).

Next on the hit list was the coolant expansion tank hoses.

The tank its self is OK, and is holding good pressure with the new cap on it, but the hoses were showing their age. One had a 2008 date on it, which means it must have been replaced when the car was a couple of years old, but was still very old. The other has had been replaced before with a generic bit of heater hose (which has been rubbing on the bonnet insulation due to not being a proper moulded hose).

The original hose (with the writing and big R on it above) was the worst. This goes into a hard line on top of the turbo, and had been cooked. You could see it was weeping from the end

The two replacement hoses are both moulded

That original hose was worse than expected. The end split in a few places during removal and was as hard as plastic

The two new hoses fitted

I barely lost a couple of drops of coolant during this work, so didn’t even need to top it up and the system is self bleeding. Very easy job to do.

Next on the service list was the cabin filter. This is tucked up under the scuttle trim on the passengers side, but fairly easy to get at. First, gently lift up and move the sealing strip on the front edge

Now remove the clip on the guard (far right in above photo, already removed) and lift the panel up. This exposes the splash tray under it. Lift that up and the filter will be exposed.

Before you can remove the filter there are two small retaining clips that need to be unclipped. They are released in this photo, but are shown by the arrows. They sit flat against the filter when locked, and lift up and out to unlock. The top of the filter comes forward and then up and out.

Now is a good time to get a vaccum in there and clean out any debris and make sure the area is nice and clean. Fit the new filter and lower the clips

The ACDelco genuine filter has these nice wings on it to help seal into the box at the top and bottom. I noticed the Sakura one that came out didn’t.

Now refit the trims, clip and seal. Done.

Last on the list was to fix this

Ah yes, it wouldn’t be a European car without a Check Engine Light. The engine ran and drove fine, but a check of the codes showed these

Bank 1 Sensor 2 – Stuck Rich and No Activity. Bums.

Well, how hard can it be to do? Oh, itls the sensor tucked down the back of the very well packed engine bay? Yay.

I tried clearing the codes but the CEL would come back after a decent drive.

Turns out it’s not that hard. Just takes a few long extensions and a good socket. Remove the engine cover first, and get ready to kneel on the slam panel to reach back there.

This is where it lives. The hole (orange arrow) is where the sensor screws into. If you have nimble arms you can actually fit your whole arm down there to screw the sensor in by hand. The red arrow is a vacuum fitting that was broken and taped up. More on that later.

The old O2 sensor was tight but came out without issue. The new one also screwed back in and tightened up fine.

The sensor is working well and the CEL hasn’t returned.

Returning to that red arrow, I read in the paperwork with the car that the local dealer had found and “Fixed” a leak in a vaccum pipe. I figure it was this mess.

I guess it kinda worked and maybe didn’t leak, but god it was ugly and not something I can live with. Thankfully the previous owner included a replacement pipe, but it was slightly different. I ended up using a lighter to heat the pipe up (its hard plastic, not rubber) and swapping the good part of the new pipe onto the old pipework to makes two into one good one.

Refitted, and makes me much happier.

Overall the car runs exactly the same, but now I know its in good shape. Ready for its new owner.

Yes, the car is currently sold pending full payment and collection. The first person to view the car is the one buying it.

I’ll be sad to see it go as its a cool car and really nice to drive, but it’s just not nimble and this takes away the fun for me. Sure, it’s fast and sticks well, but it rolls and really shows its size and weight in corners.

Not 100% on what I will replace it with yet, but time will tell.

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